Handy guide how to sew inseam pockets

Not keen on pockets, then you’ll love these in-seam pockets that hide neatly in the side seam.

Handy for holding a mobile phone or emergency lippy! Meghan Hunt shares her handy guide to sew inseam pockets

Find them in side seams of skirts, dresses, and jackets to create a hidden pocket or just tucking your hands in. Use the same fabric as your garment to make them nearly invisible, or pick a contrasting fabric to add a fun touch as shown here. Add this style of pocket to a commercial pattern before sewing up the seams or open up the side seam on a ready-made garment. Press as you go for best results. It does what is says on the packet so heres the step-by-step guide on how to sew inseam pockets.

Steps to make

Step 1

Cut two pocket pieces using the template at the back on page 124-126. You will also need to decide where you want to position the top of the pocket on both the front and back pattern pieces of your garment at the side seam.

Step 2

Lay the front and back pieces of your garment right side up. Position the pocket pieces right side down lining up evenly on both sides. Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew each pocket piece to the garment piece along the straight seam line.

Step 3

Finish the edge by sewing a narrow zigzag stitch or by cutting along the edge using pinking shears. This will prevent the raw edges from fraying.

Step 4

Press each pocket piece open, with the seam allowance pressed toward the pocket.

Step 5

Pin your front and back garment pieces right sides together along the side seam, making sure the pocket pieces line up. Using a 15mm seam allowance, start sewing the side seam at the top of the garment. Continue sewing down the side seam 2cm past the top edge of the pocket, then backstitch to secure your stitching in place. Leave a gap with no stitching where your pocket opening will be, and start a new line of stitching about 2cm before the bottom edge of the pocket, again using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Stitch all the way down from the pocket to the bottom of the garment.

Step 6

Now stitch the pockets together along the edges. Start stitching where you left off at the top of the pocket pieces, sew all the way around the pockets, and finish at the bottom of the pocket, connecting your line of stitches to your side seam. As before, use a standard 15mm seam allowance.

Step 7

As in Step 3, sew a narrow zigzag stitch or use pinking shears to prevent the raw edges from fraying. If you use a zigzag stitch, trim off any excess seam allowance without cutting through the zigzag stitches. Turn the garment right side out and admire your beautiful new in-seam pocket!


NB: These instructions are for making one in-seam pocket. For a pocket on each side of your garment (such as in a skirt, dress, or jacket) repeat these steps on both the left and right sides of your garment.

This guest feature was written by Meghan Hunt. For more excellent tutorials from her visit: MadebyMeg.

If you love this handy guide to sew inseam pockets then you’ll love our other Learn to Sew features here.